https://www.daveparryphotography.com/blog daily 0.75 2023-02-03 https://www.daveparryphotography.com/blog/school-holds-moon monthly 0.5 2023-02-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/64beb51a-9f40-4fd7-90bc-afbb35aa6619/SchoolHolds_50BoardDetail_HiRes.jpg Blog - The School Room Holds - Moon Climbing - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/fa938b0f-c89e-40a1-8453-a216631335f7/SchoolHolds_50BoardRing_HiRes.jpg Blog - The School Room Holds - Moon Climbing - There are no volumes and clever trick moves here, no coordination dynos. But what you do have is bags of character. The passage of time has given the bare plywood a dark patina like an antique workbench. Some holds themselves have, in many cases, seen better days. Hundreds of pairs of hands and feet have traced their climbing aspirations across these chunks of resin and roughly cut wood. They have left us with not a time capsule from the past, hanging in stasis, but an evolving piece of climbing history, the like of which we see on every outdoor crag but very little in the world of indoor climbing. So let’s take a dive into the world of the School holds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/61c61cd9-ce11-4412-aa04-597b7056347b/SchoolHolds_B36_IG.jpg Blog - The School Room Holds - Moon Climbing - B36 If you cut this hold in half, the insides would read ‘schoolroom’ like a stick of Blackpool rock. Actually, to be more accurate, if you cut it in half you would end up with two smaller but otherwise identical holds, because this hold started out life as a humble bannister rail. In its second life, this bannister helps climbers ascend to the heights of Schoolroom accomplishment; power, glory, and a place in the Sheffield climbing hall of fame. The Schoolroom bannisters are fantastically comfy to climb on and surprisingly versatile - straight hold, undercut, pinch - but they are also notable because they represent a very early instance of upcycling. Yes, before that term was even conceived, the 1990s Sheffield board cognoscenti were already reducing their carbon footprint, meaning driving to the crag in a 16-valve Lancia Delta HF 4WD Turbo was a guilt-free affair. Good times. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/6aceb0bd-4068-420c-a959-ae3fe2c43749/SchoolHolds_C14_IG.jpg Blog - The School Room Holds - Moon Climbing - C14 In stark contrast to today's lovingly sculpted resin holds - with ergonomic shapes, carefully sourced materials and finely crafted textures and coordinated colours - C14 has the look of an offcut piece of wood pulled out of a skip and given to a dog to chew on for half an hour before being unceremoniously screwed onto the board. The outer face still bears the hint of blue paint that hints at its former life, pockmarked by nail and screw. Who knows what circumstances lead to this unpromising looking scrap of timber winding up in Sheffield in 1993, but from its humble start in life it was destined for greatness. Every problem using this is a banger, including the ever popular Woodology, the completely in-your-face Schoolboy, and the often overlooked Schoolgirl. So next time you walk past a stack of broken pallets in Halfords carpark, just think what classic holds of the future are sitting there patiently awaiting their moment. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/6bb444c6-ad51-4993-b3cd-ebb7da2cd86e/SchoolHolds_B35_IG.jpg Blog - The School Room Holds - Moon Climbing - B35 A true workhorse, B35 gets more traffic than virtually any other hold on the board. Not because it has any particularly aesthetic qualities, but because of its sheer versatility. Is it a pinch? An undercut? A jug? A dish? Scientists have failed to classify it, but anyone who's ever climbed on the 50 degree board will testify that it features on many bona-fide classics. From lowly warmups, to hard test-pieces, and everything in between. Basic Jez, Michael Jackson's Silver Glove, Basic Level Of Power, Total Recoil, Pego's, Peter Pan Handle; the list of board problems elevated to household names goes on. B35 is the Swiss Army Knife of board holds. Incidentally, you will be glad to know an exact copy of this hold features on a child’s playground somewhere in Sheffield, so we do have a backup should the unthinkable happen. (The location remains a closely guarded secret to discourage trophy hunters.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/584f5c59-db92-492f-baf5-06a682dee201/SchoolHolds_B31_IG.jpg Blog - The School Room Holds - Moon Climbing - B31 The passage of time has not been kind to B31. Its former glory days as a solid 2-screw hold are long gone; now, tenuously pinned together, it somehow manages to survive, albeit with the help of a protective resin foothold. But none of that detracts from the sheer delight to be experienced the first time you manage a move off it, and ANY move off B31 is a victory. You'll probably want to learn to take the hold in just the right place, to align your fingertips with the subtle fingernail-worn grooves in the soft layers of the plywood to achieve maximum depth on the hold. Perhaps you're going to the green horizontal pinch C12 on the ultra-classic Stuey Five Bellies. For a moment, for a split second, you are the bleach-haired cotton-lycra-wearing Ben Moon circa 1995. And money can’t buy that feeling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/fa9b5d02-3f9b-457a-85ee-6d68685e6583/SchoolHolds_B58_IG.jpg Blog - The School Room Holds - Moon Climbing - B58 The legendary B58, the famous grey diagonal edge/pinch, barely three inches across the longest point, pivotal to so many of the established classics; Total Recoil, Pegos, Turd Reich, Pork&Beans. On some problems the key is to gently drag it, dropping your little finger beneath the subtle angle change low down, with the thumb barely pinching the bottom of the dish. Yet on other problems the aspirant climber must hit the hold violently and attempt to almost destroy it with a high aggressive vice-like pinch grip on the narrowest part of this dark resin masterpiece. It even serves as a steely backhand on Pumping Pistons. The provenance of the hold is unknown; possibly Bendcrete or DR, early 1990s vintage, but whoever made this innocuous beauty deserves a pat on the back from the many Sheffield climbers who have crossed paths with it over the years - chapeau. https://www.daveparryphotography.com/blog/category/writing monthly 0.5 https://www.daveparryphotography.com/blog/category/climbing monthly 0.5 https://www.daveparryphotography.com/peaklandscapes daily 0.75 2022-10-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/00762c28-3e6b-42d3-89d4-6fc0030d9c45/burbsouthtopsnow.jpg Landscape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/e375e11e-a8e0-4380-b88d-a39fd0fad537/YarncliffeTrees.jpg Landscape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/55815d38-ea3b-4df2-8552-de7887ca9106/CiochBlocks.jpg Landscape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/60f4763af652ad714bcc1600/af92f9b5-cce7-4457-8b3d-091a76451900/HorseshoeQuarry.jpg 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